Instructions for applying an Invisible Zipper

DSC07286_2 Step 1. Prepare your seam by overlocking each edge and pressing back the 1.5cm seam allowance. Beauty of an invisible zip is it just looks like a seam when it is properly inserted and you can have as little as 10cm seam to apply it. DSC07312 Step 2. Using a marker or chalk, on both sides of teeth mark a level point on wrong side of zip tape 2.5cm above finished end of teeth. I use a 20cm zip for an 18cm opening.DSC07313   Step 3. With zipper opened, place zipper face down onto right side of garment, teeth just in from fold 2mm, pin on outer edge of tape to hold in place for length. Top finished point of zip should sit at the 1.5cm seam allowance. The top pinked edge is usually level with raw edge. DSC07287_2DSC07288_2   Step 4. Repeat pinning for second side. Sew, using a basting stitch and a regular foot with needle in far left position( or a zipper foot)down each side stopping at blue marked point. This row holds zip in place for final row, which is much closer to the zip teeth, and is removed later. DSC07292_2DSC07295_2DSC07293_2   .DSC07296_2 Now both sides are tacked in and should look like this... DSC07297_2 DSC07298_2     Step 5. Using an invisible zipper foot ( no. 35 for Bernina) and starting at the top, unfurl zip so that teeth coil lies under left bridge of foot. Stitch in a regular stitch length to bottom marker and reverse a few stitches to hold well. DSC07291_2   Repeat for other side swapping to right bridge. DSC07299_2   When it is zipped up it should now look like this...very neat! If yours is showing more zip tape on outside, try to stitch seam again and unfurl zipper ahead of foot, as you feed it under the foot and slightly pushing zipper further under foot and stitching inside previous row. Now to finish off and sew seam below zipper.... DSC07302_2 DSC07314   Step 6. Try to link up last stitch on left with last stitch on right with a pin, anchor as best you can, with another pin while this is linked. DSC07305_2DSC07316 DSC07306_2 DSC07308_2 Stitch from slightly above last stitching line, holding zipper tails away from seam. It should look like this... DSC07317 If you have difficulty with this linking up and machining, dont attempt to sew within one or two stitches of where you finished hand stitch using a needle and thread. Finished zip...nice ! DSC07309_2 A hook and eye can be placed at top if you want, but I am happy if it looks like this when you bag it out with a facing. DSC07311_2  DSC07310_2
Posted in Lessons.